Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in the Pacific Northwest
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in the Pacific Northwest is an article written by Ronald S. White published in the A.C.D. - The Journal of The Arthur Conan Doyle Society (Vol. 3, 1992).
This article reconstructs Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's June 1923 Pacific Northwest lecture tour, using newspapers, railway timetables, and Our Second American Adventure to clarify dates, movements, and previously uncertain details. It corrects chronological gaps in existing biographies, particularly concerning his travel from California to Washington and his arrival in Canada.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in the Pacific Northwest
1993 will mark the seventieth anniversary of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's last lecture tour of the United States. Whilst much has been written regarding Sir Arthur, various segments of his speaking tours have been overlooked or poorly investigated. In The Quest for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Christopher Redmond comments on the difficulty that biographers have in dealing with the lack of published factual data for various segments of Conan Doyle's life. With regard to the chronology of events he states. For Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, remarkably, the data are still fragmentary — no published source gives, to take a tiny example, the precise date of his arrival in Canada on his quixotic speaking tour of 1923...' (1)
Fortunately, even though Sir Arthur's personal journals and papers are not accessible, there is still much in the way of original source material available. This is in the form of Sir Arthur's own published autobiographical works, local newspaper accounts, photos, and written accounts at various historical societies. When these sources are explored and compared, it is occasionally possible to rectify omissions and discrepancies.
As part of an ongoing investigation, connected with Sir Arthur's visit to the American West Coast, my wife, Susan Warner, and I retraced his route between San Francisco, California, and Victoria, British Columbia. Our primary reference for this trip was Sir Arthur's own account as recorded in Our Second American Adventure (2). Of course, this book was not intended to be a day-by-day journal and its information could only form an outline of Conan Doyle's activities. No other work that we have found covers this leg of the trip; so the details needed to be filled in from sources along the way.
At the beginning of the trip Susan chided me for being the only person to drive with a current road map in one hand and a Southern Pacific railroad timetable for June, 1923 in the other. By the end of our journey the timetable proved to be quite useful. What follows is the most accurate account that we could assemble from available sources.
Arthur Conan Doyle's trip to the Pacific Northwest began shortly after midnight on 6 June, 1923, when his party arrived at the San Francisco Ferry Building. His last San Francisco lecture had ended about two hours earlier at the Dreamland Theatre. The entire entourage consisted of seven people. There were, of course, Sir Arthur, Lady Doyle, and the three children (Denis, Adrian, and young Jean, who preferred to be called 'Billy'). Miss French and Mr Wallace Erskine completed the party: Miss French served as governess and attended to Lady Doyle, while Mr Erskine had joined the group in New York and served as Conan Doyle's travelling manager until they reached Calgary. (3)
It was just after midnight when the ferry pulled away from its slip and sailed across the Bay to Oakland 7th Street pier. Here the party was met by The Southern Pacific No. 54 (nicknamed The Oregonian'). At 12:40 AM the northward journey began.
If anyone was still awake, there would have been an interesting sight at the Port Costa terminal: the railroad bridge would not be built until 1930, and the train had to literally be ferried across Carquinez Straits. The ferry boat Contra Costa was the largest of its kind: at 433 feet long it could hold 36 rail cars and two engines. The actual crossing took only about twenty minutes. (4) Even so, it was 3:30 AM when the train arrived at the Davis station, about ninety miles from San Francisco.
Most of the travel through California was done during the day and Conan Doyle commented on the remarkable view of Mt Lassen from his window. Mt Lassen was, at that time, listed as the only active volcano in the continental United States. It remained so until 18 May 1980, when Mount St Helens erupted in southern Washington State, taking 57 lives.
ACD also remarked on the view of Mt Shasta. I am sure that he would have recognised the white cone-shaped peak as the same one he had seen from the top of Mt Tamalpais during his San Francisco visit. (5)
The train pulled into Shasta Springs just before noon on 7 June. Here the family disembarked for a few minutes to stretch their legs and admire the view through the canyon. There was also an opportunity to sample the natural mineral waters offered at the resort. Whether they did so. Conan Doyle does not say.
Shasta Springs was a major resort on the Southern Pacific line. However, during the 1970's the railroad was forced to sell many of these resorts. I understand that Shasta Springs is now owned by a new-age spiritualist group and is no longer open to the general public.
Throughout the trip from Oakland the train crossed and re-crossed the Sacramento River. On the 18th crossing, one of the more remarkable feats of engineering, the Cantara Loop. was required to bring the train out of the canyon and onto the plateau where Mount Shasta is situated. (6) Once out of the canyon, the family watched as Mt Shasta receded behind them. Sir Arthur remarked that the beauty of the changing scenery made amends for the long train ride. (7) It was almost sunset when they passed Gold Ray Dam and the Rogue River in southern Oregon.
Sir Arthur and his family arrived in Portland at 7:40 AM on the morning of 8 June. An article appearing in the Morning Oregonian (8) listed the family's planned itinerary, which included a trip up the Columbia River Gorge. However, at some point during the long train ride the plans were changed. Sir Arthur disembarked in Portland while the rest of the party transferred to the No. 408, Northern Pacific, leaving for Seattle at 8:05 AM.
Upon his arrival in Portland, ACD firmly refused to pose for more than a single photographer. (9) His interviews were also very short. All in all, it was behaviour quite unlike that of the gregarious individual who had been described in the Los Angeles and San Francisco press. It was only after searching through several newspapers, and Conan Doyle's own book, that we were able to piece together the details of a minor conspiracy.
During his brief interview Sir Arthur told the press that, immediately after his evening lecture at the Portland Public Auditorium, he would be leaving to join his family in Seattle. The Tacoma Ledger picked up on the story and checked with the sponsors of Sir Arthur's Tacoma lecture. The sponsors confirmed that Conan Doyle would go straight from Portland to Seattle to spend some time with his family. However, he would return to Tacoma for his lecture on Sunday, the 10th. After some prodding, the Ledger was able to learn which train Conan Doyle would be taking. A check with the railroad timetable confirmed that it would stop in Tacoma for a few minutes.
The Ledger sent a reporter to interview Sir Arthur during the brief stop. He boarded the train, and after searching through several cars found the man he was looking for, 'the exact likeness of all the pictures of Sir Arthur. His pince-nez were settled on his nose as he read the newspaper. 'Pardon me,' said the reporter. 'Are you Sir Arthur Conan Doyle?'
'I might be,' replied the man, with a twinkle in his eye.
The reporter found his subject most cordial. Each of his questions on Sir Arthur's views of Spiritualism received prompt and thoughtful answers. The train whistle blew, cutting short a most interesting exchange. The reporter rose to leave and thanked his subject.
'You're quite welcome,' replied the great man. I've been honoured to be interviewed by you. Here, take my card.'
The reporter held onto the card as he dashed for the exit. Once outside, he watched the train pull out of the station. It was only then that he inspected the card, which read:
- M. G. Epplestein
- Fine Silks
- 425 Fifth Avenue
- New York, N.Y.
- Presented by
- Samual A. Austin — Representative
Once back at the paper the reporter learned that Sir Arthur had been delayed and would take a later train. He attributed the incident as being due, most likely, to Conan Doyle's idiosyncracies. (10)
None of the newspapers in Portland, Tacoma, or Seattle record any interviews with Sir Arthur on 9 June. Apparently, the reporter from the Ledger was not the only one misled by Conan Doyle and his sponsors. Unable to locate Sir Arthur, the press found the next most available subjects.
The Seattle papers record several interviews with Lady Doyle and the children at The New Washington Hotel. During one interview, Adrian expressed amazement that Seattle had twenty-three playfields where a game of ball could be set up at any time.
- 'But say,' he said. 'Fancy that, twenty-three playfields! But do the bobbies jostle a chap about if they want to play?'
For the first time, according to the reporter, all three children revealed their favourite. works by their father. The choice was unanimous. The White Company. That and Sir Nigel are my favourites, joined in Lady Doyle. She was convinced that both her. sons would become writers and disclosed that Adrian had already had two short stories published. (11)
So where was Sir Arthur on 9 June? From the information provided in Our Second American Adventure, (12) we found that, upon his arrival in Portland on the morning of the 8th. ACD was greeted by a small, elderly, bearded man whom he knew from Surrey. The man delivered a message to Conan Doyle and arranged to meet with him on the morning of the 9th.
Having successfully mis-directed the reporters. Conan Doyle did meet with the un-named man the next morning. ACD was directed down a series of streets to a private residence where he was introduced to a medium, and a private sitting was arranged. At the end of the sitting Conan Doyle stated that he took the information offered at face value as 'no evidence was offered and none was requested.' The rest of the day was spent in private sightseeing. That same evening Sir Arthur recorded a sitting with another medium by the name of Mrs M. T. Downes. (13)
On the morning of the 10th ACD boarded a train for Tacoma. He arrived at the Tacoma Hotel with ample time to refresh himself before his lecture at the Scottish Cathedral. One can imagine his expression as he picked up the Sunday paper from the front desk and read about the Ledger's hapless reporter interviewing a bogus Conan Doyle. He probably had a good chuckle at the poor reporter's expense, although he did not record the incident or comment on Samual Austin's views of Spiritualism.
Conan Doyle met with a Dr Littlefield who claimed that, through the use of mental force, he could shape the structure of salt crystals into a saline solution. ACD considered the claim, ... so incredible that had I not met Littlefield and been assured of his sanity and seen his photographs, I should hesitate to put it down on paper.' (14) Conan Doyle obtained copies of several of Littlefield's photographs, two of which were reproduced in Our Second American Adventure. (15)
Conan Doyle does not state whether the meeting took place in Tacoma or Seattle, but mentions only that it was 'Dr Littlefield, of Seattle. Based upon where he is mentioned in ACD's text, and the schedule in Seattle, I would place the meeting in Tacoma. However, that is only conjecture. After his Tacoma lecture it seems that the press lost sight of ACD once again. There is no mention in the papers as to what train he took to Seattle, nor is the time of his arrival given. In fact, the papers indicate that the first photos and interview with Sir Arthur were at The New Washington Hotel after he had arrived and had time to refresh himself. Here there was also a remarkable change in Conan Doyle. He was described as the elevator operator's best customer, making numerous trips between his suite and the hotel lobby. In the lobby he gave lengthy and cordial interviews while posing for as many photos as requested. Even his view towards Sherlock Holmes had softened.
- If an idea comes to me that will make good fiction. I will use it. No. Sherlock Holmes isn't dead. But I've devoted my life to this religious undertaking. (16)
Trying to fill in the blanks, I went back to the timetable. The papers stated that ACD arrived in Seattle on the morning of 11 June. If he came by train it would have been quite early. There were only two trains listed in the morning run. both leaving Tacoma around 5:00 AM. I must admit that the Southern Pacific timetable was mainly concerned with schedules of connecting trains. A search through local rail schedules may have revealed other morning trains. However. Tacoma and Seattle are both located on Puget Sound, and the most popular commute was actually by steamship.
Service began about 6:30 in the morning and one could catch a ship about every 30 minutes. The 90 minute trip up Puget Sound cost between 35 and 50 cents. It is easy to picture Sir Arthur enjoying a leisurely cruise, while taking advantage of the chance to escape the inevitable reporters at the railroad depot.
There is a photograph that appears to place Sir Arthur on the upper deck of a ship arriving in Seattle. Whether the figure on the upper deck is, in reality, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle has been the subject of continuing discussion and analysis.
During his day in Seattle, Sir Arthur visited the studio of Mr Kanouse. He was the photographer who produced the psychic photograph of Mrs Lally in her coffin, with the ghostly image of her face suspended above. The photo had been authenticated by the President of the Seattle Psychic Research Society; however. Conan Doyle wished to interview the photographer and investigate the circumstances, as much as possible, before presenting the photograph at the evening's lecture.
ACD's last U.S. lecture was at the Public Arena, in Seattle, on the evening of 11 June. It was a solemn moment when he announced that it would be the last time that he would appear as a speaker in the United States.
Based upon our research, we can now answer Christopher Redmond's questions as to when Conan Doyle arrived in Canada.
Shortly after 9:00 AM on 12 June, 1923, Sir Arthur and his family left the Seattle harbour on board the Canadian Pacific Steamship Princess Victoria. (18) Shortly after 1:00 PM the Princess Victoria reached Vancouver Island and steamed into the city of Victoria's inner harbour. The ship remained in port for a little more than an hour, long enough for Sir Arthur to give a couple of interviews and the family to do some sightseeing.
It seems that young Jean's nickname caused some confusion among the press. Both the Victoria Daily Times and the Daily Colonist reported on the arrival of Sir Arthur, Lady Doyle, and their three sons: Denis, Adrian, and 'Billy'. The Empress Hotel was to serve as Conan Doyle's headquarters during his lecture on 14 June; however, on the 12th the party continued on the steamship to the city of Vancouver, where ACD lectured on the 13th. On the morning of 14 June the entire party returned to Victoria for an evening lecture at the Capitol Theatre. In Our Second American Adventure Conan Doyle writes as though his lecture in Victoria takes place upon his initial arrival and places the Vancouver lecture afterwards. (19) It is likely that Conan Doyle's book, and the back and forth commuting between Victoria and Vancouver, has caused the confusion as to his actual arrival date.
As the Conan Doyle party leaves Victoria and begins its eastward trek across Canada, we will take our leave of this little group. There are, of course, details which can be added as more research is done. Eventually, one hopes, a cohesive account of Conan Doyle's lecture tours may be assembled. Such an accounting would give us a little more insight into a man whose varied works still influence the literary world.
References
1. Lellenberg. J. L. (ed.): The Quest for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle Thirteen Biographers in Search of a Life: Southern Illinois University Press, 1987, p. 173.
2. Conan Doyle. A.: Our Second American Adventure: London, Hodder and Stoughton, 1924. 3. Ibid., pp. 11, 212.
4. The Shasta Route; Southern Pacific Railroad, 1915.
5. Conan Doyle, op. cit.. pp. 159-161.
6. The Shasta Route.
7. Conan Doyle, op. cit., p. 183.
8. 'Doyle Due Here Today'. The Morning Oregonian; 8 June, 1923, p. 8.
9. This is not a Spirit Picture'. The Oregon Daily Journal; 8 June, 1923, p. 1.
10. Spirit of Conan Doyle Elusive'. The Tacoma Sunday Ledger, 10 June, 1923, p. 10.
11. Doyle Boy Likes Ball', The Seattle Daily Times; 9 June, 1923, p 3.
12. Conan Doyle, op. cit., pp. 185-190.
13. Ibid.. pp. 184-188.
14. Ibid., p. 191.
15. Ibid., facing page 192.
16. 'Conan Doyle Defies Seattle Psychologists'. The Seattle Post-Intelligencer; 12 June, 1923, pp. 11-12.
17. Conan Doyle, op. cit., p. 195.
18. Ibid., p. 196.
19. Ibid., pp. 198-200.
- Article courtesy Christopher Roden, founder of The Arthur Conan Doyle Society (1989-2003).
