The Reichenbach Falls 1891-1991
The Reichenbach Falls 1891–1991 is an article written by Jean Upton published in the A.C.D. - The Journal of The Arthur Conan Doyle Society (Vol. 2, No. 2) in autumn 1991.
This article recounts the 1991 centenary pilgrimage of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London to Meiringen, commemorating the events of The Final Problem and celebrating the opening of the Sherlock Holmes Museum and the Conan Doyle Place. Blending pageantry, re-enactment, and ceremony, it highlights both the enduring Holmesian devotion and Dame Jean Conan Doyle's reminder that homage to Holmes must honour his creator.
The Reichenbach Falls 1891–1991
Air Cmdt. Dame Jean Conan Doyle at the opening of The Sherlock Holmes Museum in Meiringen.
The Sherlock Holmes Society of London Swiss Pilgrimage
1991 marks the centenary of events which took place in what may well be Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's most unpopular story, The Final Problem, chronicling the apparent death of Sherlock Holmes at the Reichenbach Falls on 4 May 1891. True to form, more than one hundred members of The Sherlock Holmes Society of London turned out to solemnly observe the occasion, and also to participate in the opening of the Sherlock Holmes Museum and the naming of Conan Doyle Place in Meiringen, Switzerland.
For many, the journey began by thoroughly mystifying London cabdrivers en route to Heathrow Airport, as all participants travelled in Victorian costume from start to finish of the Pilgrimage. Despite the heavy, and sometimes uncomfortable trappings, as well as abominable weather, whimsical humour prevailed and few complaints were murmured.
The trek began in Lucerne and, over the course of eight days progressed to Berne, Interlaken, included a visit to the Jungfraujoch, from thence to Grindelwald for refreshments, and finally to Meiringen.
On 4 May, despite pelting snow, the group which had now swollen in size with reporters and curiosity seekers, made its way to the site of the fatal encounter between Holmes (Philip Porter) and Moriarty (Tony Howlett), who gamely carried out the re-enactment to the delight of photographers. A bewildered Watson (Tim Owen) later appeared on the path in search of Holmes and, finding only his walking stick and a farewell note, naturally assumed the worst. Following the descent from the Falls a memorial service was held, led by Inspector Lestrade (Roger Johnson), only to be interrupted by Holy Peters (Peter Horrocks) who was promptly sent packing by good old Watson. Holmes made a miraculous reappearance, and the Meiringen Brass Band played a celebratory march.
The afternoon of 5 May heralded the naming of Meiringen's town square CONAN DOYLE PLACE, and the opening of the Sherlock Holmes Museum, housed in the old English church. Many curious residents of Meiringen turned out for the occasion, and entertainment was provided by a yodel choir, and later by the Meiringen Children's Choir, who were somewhat reminiscent of the field mice in The Wind in the Willows. Holmes and Watson performed a tree-planting ceremony, and many speeches were made, beginning with the Dorfobmann, Mr Max Matter, and Dr Peter Mueller, Head of the Department for Tourism. The museum's creators, Tony Howlett, John Reid and Arthur Reinhard each spoke of their personal involvement in the project. Shirley Purves, Chairman of The Sherlock Holmes Society of London, spoke briefly on behalf of the Pilgrims, and then introduced Dame Jean Conan Doyle, who performed the naming of Conan Doyle Place and officially opened the Museum. Her address was as follows:
- 'Ladies and Gentlemen... I promise not to keep you long!
- I would like to thank the authorities of Meiringen who invited me to come over here and carry out this ceremony today I think it's extremely good of them.
- I should also like to thank the people of Meiringen for the change of name to Conan Doyle Place. I know Switzerland is very conservative about these things, and changes mean lots of things to lots of people. There's a street just off Piccadilly which just changed its name to Swiss Court, and I know people are still blinking and wondering why the change!
- My father would have been absolutely delighted that this year's Pilgrimage has coincided with the 700th anniversary of the Federation of Switzerland. He was very fond of Switzerland, and had many happy days here; and I remember a lovely holiday we all spent at Grindelwald.'
- Now to come to the Museum. I really must congratulate Tony Howlett so much for the creation of this Museum. It was his idea, and when he told me about it four years ago, in my mind it seemed quite impossible. With the help of the wonderful architects, John Reid and Arthur Reinhard, it has been achieved and is very elegant; and I think it will bring a great deal of pleasure to the people who come here.
- I'm afraid I've only got one criticism, and that is that here in Meiringen I suppose there are more memorials to my father than anywhere else on earth - only most of those memorials are slightly disguised under the use of the name Sherlock Holmes. We are all adults, and Sherlock Holmes was a fictional detective. He was not the greatest detective in the world, he was the greatest fictional detective in the world, and he owes his creation, of course, to my father. It distresses me a bit when I see a plot on which my name, which is quite unimportant, is shown in the same lettering as my father's. And I do hope that, in the future, the museum will be able to have more exhibits which refer to my father; it is lacking in that a bit. It's marvellous downstairs; the sitting room is absolutely magnificent, and one can spend hours watching it, picking out special things. But there is not enough about my father there. He is not Santa Claus, Father Christmas, about whom one can talk about his existence or non-existence. Sherlock Holmes did not exist, and homage to him should be homage to his creator.
- Well, having said that, I would like again to congratulate everyone connected with the museum, because it is going to give a lot of pleasure to people from all over the world, and I would like to say too that it is so nice to meet the Sherlock Holmes Society Pilgrims once more you have been a hardy lot! You've been great, and no-one seems to have complained you all take it in your stride. And it's lovely to be back here in Meringen again. Thank you very much.'
Dame Jean Conan Doyle again thanked the people of Meiringen for allowing the name of Conan Doyle Place, and then declared the Museum open. A ribbon-cutting ceremony was held, and she was presented with a Swiss cowbell. The Pilgrims were then invited to proceed into the Museum to sign the guestbook (in character, of course) and celebratory wine was served as the Meiringen Brass Band played in the background.
The Museum itself was, indeed, an ambitious project. Though expertly designed and arranged, it is far from impersonal: many of the exhibits in the display cases, and indeed much of the trappings in the sitting room, were donated by members of the Society. In order to give everyone the opportunity to be in volved, all participants in the Pilgrimage were invited to bring a book of proper vintage to be put on permanent display in the bookshelves of the sitting room, for which each donor received a handsome certificate of thanks. Dame Jean Conan Doyle herself donated a book of poetry by Walt Whitman with a signature inside: A. Conan Doyle, M.D., 1891.
Among the various displays are police uniforms of the 1890s, house-breaking implements, maps of London and Switzerland, a harpoon of the type used by Black Peter, and a wax bust of Holmes modelled by John Doubleday, the sculptor of the life-size statue in Conan Doyle Place.
The sitting room is arranged behind glass, and it houses a magnificent confection of extremely fine Victorian furniture and miscellanea. Along with the more familiar landmarks of 221B, two Jezail rifles are mounted on the wall, and a subtle soundtrack of horse-drawn carriages passing by plays continuously as one views the display. Though some comment was made that it appeared a bit too fussy an arrangement for two bachelors, the room does provide a realistic glimpse of a bygone era.
An elegant, though seemingly interminable, formal dinner was held that evening at the Englischer Hof (the Hotel Sauvage), followed at 2.00 a.m. by entertainment provided by the braver (or less inhibited) members of the Pilgrimage. Dame Jean, bless her, stayed with the celebration until well after 3.00 a.m. before retiring. A bleary-eyed lot met at breakfast the next morning (bags had to be ready and waiting outside the doors by 9.00 a.m.!), and vast quantities of coffee were consumed before assembling at the Sherlock Holmes statue in the square for the awarding of the coveted prize of the miniature of the statue. To his great astonishment and delight, young Sherlockian Michael Meers of Switzerland received his prize from sculptor John Doubleday. Michael had assembled a veritable volume of study through which he deduced the clues hidden on the statue which provided the names of the sixty Sherlock Holmes stories.
A weary but happy group made its way to the train station to begin the journey back to London, with the knowledge that nothing would ever quite equal the events of the past week.
Editors' Note: Shortly following the Reichenbach Pilgrimage, Jean Upton and Roger Johnson announced their engagement. We understand that the couple are to be married in the Spring of 1992. On behalf of The Arthur Conan Doyle Society, we offer our congratulations and best wishes for their future happiness.
- Article courtesy Christopher Roden, founder of The Arthur Conan Doyle Society (1989-2003).
